Churros

23 April 2009

churros2

The best churrería in Sevilla (I’m assured, though asserting the best churrería in Sevilla must be like claiming the best pizza joint in New York) is a small white-tiled hole in the wall, like all churrerías, in one of the byzantine districts in the old city west of the cathedral: literally, a counter open onto the street with a little tiled alcove behind it, a painted icon of a Virgen, a steel produce scale,  confectioner’s sugar in a shaker, chocolate, dough rolled out on a smaller floured counter in back, a deep frier. Two women in white coats. Small as a shoebox.

The dough is fried in big looped spirals which the woman pinches off with her fingers into shorter curved sections, still hot & oily, onto sheets of butcher’s paper, which are folded, weighed out, & sold by the half-kilo. I take mine with sugar.

This photograph was taken in Sevilla about a month ago, on the rooftop of an apartment a block or two away. (I’m back in Sevilla next weekend for féria; the stone façade furthest away from the shot is part of the cathedral.) Note the American-style coffee in the mugs, which is not exactly a luxury, except in the sense that anything rare & formerly familiar is a luxury, and the glare, because the film I’ve been using is not proof against the sunlight here, and I need to figure out what to do about it.

_

Other breakfasts.

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